It is a tricky thing to choose what you should be spending your time on, so here's a quick graphic from Power Company Climbing.
It’s just a basic guide but it is a pretty accurate guide for where to invest your time. Let's look at breaking down how to invest the time split. These skillsets have been taken from what we usually see during our boulder better classes.
Deliberate Practice = time on the wall practicing skills, new moves, repeating moves you have done to do them better, perfecting the basics.
Physical Training = Strength, mobility and stability training in the gym to increase the capability your body has
Here are some examples of what each category might look like at different levels:
V0
Deliberate Practice
Accurate foot placement
Accurate hand placement
Try all wall angles and hold types
Physical Training
Whole body strength exercises such as deadlift, ring row, squats and push up variations
Mobility
V4
Deliberate Practice
Momentum and Tension
Specific footwork, anchored feet, heel hooks, toe hooks
Balance
Physical Training
Whole body strength exercises such as deadlift, ring row, squats and push up variations
Hand to Foot Core tension: Pallof press and pot stirrers
Some basic hangboarding to learn different hand positions and spend time under tension conditioning the fingers, predominantly injury prevention. Feel free to reduce weight or keep your feet on the floor. Aim for longer holds with great control, such as 30 seconds per round. 3 rounds once or twice a week is plenty. Please listen to your body! Any niggles or pains take precedence over training harder. We want to learn grip positions, not thrash your tendons.
Mobility, especially in the hips and thoracic spine.
V6+
Deliberate Practice
Speed and Tempo
Strength Movements, Power Movements
Physical Training
Hand to Foot Core tension: Pallof press and pot stirrers
Hangboarding at a higher intensity, 10 second holds for 3 - 6 rounds (Still listen to your body! Reduce weight or improve holds if you need, and progress gradually), more specific strength work
Specific weakness focus training (slab is a common one!), one arm hangs etc. Look for styles and moves in climbing you are uncomfortable with, and dip your toe. Increase your comfort zone.
While these are just rough guidelines a majority of the people in these grade brackets tend to fall to these weaknesses.
We have a range of drills available on our Youtube channel, axisCAP coaching for you to check out.
