Often times we can do most of the moves on a climb but there are 1 or 2 moves that elude us. So how do we approach these?
Scale the move
These moves are holes in your movement skills and awareness or your strength, we need to practice these on easier terrain. In simple terms scale the move to suit your ability.
If you are stuck on a single move on a v5 for a few weeks, try and find easier versions of the same move and repeat them. If the feet are terrible then use better footers. Can’t find one? Then make one up. Try this move on a bunch of different wall angles too. Learn the ins and outs of the move on a variety of terrain with a variety of holds and footers.
Repeat the move
Start a few grades easier and repeat a lot of versions of these moves, remake each version harder and harder after a few repeats to close the gap between what you are trying and the climb that you want to send. You could try adding holds to a hard climb, and removing them as you get more comfortable.
Experiment with your movement
Play with your momentum, speed, tension and tempo on the easier versions, don’t just do them without really thinking. Try and find the easiest way for you to do them. Can your feet work harder, are you overly tense or not tense enough? Be adaptable to the stimulus in front of you.
Good luck crushing those hard moves!
