A vicious cycle this one and it's fuelled by 1 thing: ego.
The cause of injury
What decides on whether you will get injured? Usually 1 of 2 things, luck (being able to avoid those accidental incidents) and how your actions relate to your work capacity. how close to the redline do you run regularly? A performance racing car may be regularly pushed hard into the redline but they have huge maintenance costs to accommodate this. How much effort do you put into quality recovery?
What is your work capacity and how close to the redline do you run? This is not only decided by the amount of effort you are putting into training or the level of output you have but also by how effectively you recover, the quality of the input that you have.
Recovery metrics
Here’s a system we use to gauge input vs output: https://www.axis-coaching.com.au/recovery-and-training
Record your scores for a week and see where you are, if your recovery is below a 20 each day then ramping up your training will progress you slower than ramping up your recovery. The lower your recovery points are, the lower your redline is. it may be that a supposedly easy session that you put a 3/10 effort into is over your redline if your recovery is too low.
Recovering well enough? Great! What is your current workload, and where would you like to progress to? We need to understand this so we can have planned progressive workouts over time.
Progressive workouts
Start simple, record the grades and the number of attempts and sends you make in a session. Once you know this you can either increase the volume (number of climbs you complete in a session) or increase the intensity (increase the difficulty of the climbing), as you want to ramp up your training. don’t increase both at the same time, then it can be too progressive too quickly. If its strength you are after then reduce the volume and increase the intensity, if fitness then decrease the intensity and increase the volume. While this explanation is quite generic the underlying principles work for everyone.
You cannot change what you do not measure.
