What should we consider when buying a shoe? Here are 3 points for you:
1. Fit of shoe
For me this is the most important factor in picking a shoe. You want to climb in something comfortable for you. Find a shoe that fits your foot. That means little to no air bubbles or loose spots. You want a general firmness around your foot, but not any particular spot on your foot to be painful. Experiment with different brands or even models as they differ quite a lot in toe shape to heel shape and sizing.
Bear in mind your shoes will stretch over time and mold a little to your foot. How much you want to tolerate discomfort during the breaking in process is up to you. Wearing tight shoes into a warm shower, placing bags of water to freeze in your shoes, or wearing socks in your shoes are all options to stretch them out. Beware: once you stretch a shoe it will likely not return back in size. You don’t need overly tight shoes, snug is good until you are standing on tiny footers.
2. Stiffness/style of shoe
There are many types of shoes suited to different terrains. Think outdoor vs indoor, steep vs slab, small vs big footholds, stiff vs soft rubber. The type of terrain you are going to climb on will influence what shoe will be most useful for you. More aggressive shoes are more suited to overhanging terrain. Stiff shoes are more suited to smaller holds. Soft shoes will do well on volumes but wear out faster than stiff shoes.
3. Aesthetic of shoe
This is not necessary per se, but I know I am more psyched to climb in my favourite pair of shoes that I waited a year to buy. Every time I put them on, there is a little bit of added excitement for my next climb. If you hate your climbing shoes due to fit or aesthetic, you are giving yourself a barrier to climbing.
