We fire some questions through to Tom and he quickly sent some answer back, I hope you enjoy the read.
Hi, my name is Tom I’ve recently turned 19 and I’ve been climbing for about 5-6 years.
What got me into climbing?
When I was about 12 Dad would make dinner and I’d turn on the TV and I’d watch Ninja Warrior, this was the original Japanese one. I remember watching these crazy people do some incredible things, one obstacle that was highlighted was the ultimate cliff hanger. It involved traversing a paper-thin edge (at least I thought it was) on only your fingertips! It blew my mind and each day after that I found myself trying to climb beams at school.
There was a new climbing centre that opened in the area so naturally I had to go check it out. I began going perhaps each month however this quickly became a fortnightly then weekly tradition. I kept returning more frequently and before I knew it, I was there everyday, I was hooked!
When did you start?
I began climbing consistently when I was about 13, at the local climbing centre.
What’s the biggest thing that has helped you improved?
When I was 16-18, I lost some motivation to climb as much as I would’ve liked. I was all alone in Dunsborough (the gym shut down) and I didn’t have a licence to get around. I lost finger strength, confidence and general climbing ability.
I began trying to repeat climbs I’d easily done in the past but just felt like I was nowhere near the level I once was. This really played on my nerves, I just had to be able to do something I’d done before and quickly. In order to redo these climbs as quickly as I could I began thinking about climbing differently. When I’d fall instead of thinking I’d gotten unlucky or had the sequence wrong I began noting things such as: How hard was I really trying and where in my body was I trying. This sparked a light bulb which instantly progressed my climbing. I noticed when I’d fall there would be a reason I’d fall; something would have to give. I began concentrating on the part that gives and discovering why it gives and allocating my ‘try hard mind power’ to that part on the hard move. I found huge gains when I thought about trying hard, especially with the direction to a specific body part. I began repeating the climbs easier than ever before even though physically I was nowhere near as strong as I once was. In fact, it took at least another year to regain that same level of strength but by that time I was climbing so much better it didn’t matter how long I could lock off on a hang board edge. Even today I can’t hang any longer or do anymore one armers than before.
Basically, I began using my feet and mind far better!
If you were to describe your route setting, how would you?
I am still very fresh to route setting but love it and feel like I have a defined style. I’d have to say I am very typical, that is I don’t usually stray from my box. I have a few moves which I know work with certain types of holds, walls and grades. I simply put these moves in a different order, its rare I set something ‘out of the ordinary’. All these moves are very standard, e.g. Move up to gaston then out to a side pull and throw over.
I like to think of my routes in a ‘banger’ ratio, this consists of the quality of the climb (movement, aesthetics, how close I was to the grade etc…) divided by the cost of the climb (how long I spent on it). This concept explains why I don’t usually set more variety of funky movements since I haven’t mastered setting enough of those moves quickly and consistently yet. Basically, I am very standard however I choose to focus on consistency before innovation.
Favourite place to climb and most memorable ascent? Why is it memorable for you?
Climbing in a gym with great people and a bunch of holds will always lead me to an epic session however climbing outside is really what makes me happy. My favourite places include any climbing area as long as I can feel the rock!
Whenever I think of a climb that is memorable Spatula Man (26) at Bob’s Hollow comes to mind. It was the first climb near my limit I ever did on rock. It was also a fantastic climb since it was so short, this allowed me to build my confidence on a rope again after an accident, I found it gave me so much motivation when I completed it! It was also the first outdoor rope climb I’d completed since my accident; I was too scared to tie back in but this one just seemed too good to pass up!
What’s your one piece of advice for up and coming climbers?
I’d argue that for everything in life you can only be as good as your attitude. If you’re not a fan of school, it doesn’t mean you won’t get good marks, but you’ll never get the best marks you are capable of. If you force yourself into something in climbing that you don’t enjoy you risk losing motivation. I’d suggest working towards what you’re going to enjoy. That could be climbing hard on crimps outside or training for a combined competition format… as long as you enjoy how your preparing for the end result your going to be a better climber.
How do you train and what has your training looked like in the past?
In the past year I’ve moved up to Perth, so I moved away from the Woodie which is what I’d always climb on. This meant climbing in a completely different gym with massively different holds, angles and boulder styles. Moving into this different gym completely changed the way I was forced to climb, and it has taken me the year to get used to it, this meant no specific training, I was only climbing the standard boulders in the gym.
Lately I’ve set aside climbing in the gym for the Moonboard. In terms of climbing on steep edges I couldn’t believe how much it has helped me. I feel they best I’ve ever felt.
However, in general I’ve never had a training schedule or routine. I sometimes do some core or hang boarding but only when I feel like it.
